Mexico’s Independence Day!

“Pardon is for the criminals, not for the defenders of the homeland.”
Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla

There are times when the internet makes it very easy to plan your travel adventures, and then there are times when the internet can be as frustrating and elusive as a KGB operative.

When I found out that I was going to be in Mexico during their Independence Day, and it was my job to plan out this part of the trip, I figured it would be easy to find information, like timelines and parade routes. This is a major holiday celebrated thought out the country; something had to be out there explaining what was happening, when it was going on and where to go. But surprisingly, there was little about the event. No government or local site, nada, no, zilch.

So I went to this celebration hoping for the best and a determination if I got through this without losing my mind, I was going to write about it, so the next person who does this event doesn’t have to scratch their head and try to figure out how to enjoy this event.

Mexican Independence Day is not Cinco De Mayo.

Popular belief has Mexico winning or declaring their Independence from Spain on May 5 – but truthfully, Cinco De Mayo is only celebrated in Puebla, Mexico. The date was the Battle of Puebla, which was a major win for Mexico from the French invaders in 1861.

The actual Independence Day is celebrated on September 15 at night and all day on September 16th. On September 16, 1810 – a priest named Miguel Hidalgo gave an important speech calling for all Mexicans to revolt against the rule of Spain and, 11 years later, win their independence. So don’t expect much if you are in Mexico on May 5th.

September 15th Timeline

If you are in any city in Mexico, you want to visit the local plaza. Most festivities start around 8 PM (at least in Mexico City). There will be music, a lot of patriotic Mexicans, good food and celebration. At 11:00 PM, the Mexican president (or the local dignitary) will stand on the balcony of the presidential palace (or town hall or the church, depending on where you are). He will ring the bell, give almost the same speech as Father Hidalgo (it was never written down, so nobody knows what exactly was said), and ring the bell, indicating that they, Mexicans, were declaring their independence. What makes this unique is that the crowd shouts back, and most Mexicans know the rebuttal.

I actually watched this at a bar off the central plaza, and everyone at the bar was shouting back.

It is a great way to keep history alive while engaging the younger generation in understanding this day’s importance.

And then they blow up a bunch of Fireworks…and the party really begins.

September 15 Hints:

It gets crowded, and there are a lot of people. If you go with a group, you have a meeting spot if you get lost.
For Mexico City, they funnel you through the city’s historic district, so be prepared to walk a million miles. There are areas where the funnel gets tight- if you don’t do well in crowds, think beforehand. I do pretty well, but it was getting to me at a certain point.
Most bars will broadcast the celebration, so if you want to avoid handling the crowds, ensure you sit at a bar. I end up watching the speech from a local bar, chowing down on a hamburger and a cool glass of beer.
If you are all about the crowds, go for it, but get there early. We walked down around 8:00 PM. And the closes we reached, the main festivities were about ½ mile away. Yeah, it is that crowded.
Wear Red, White, and Green. Everyone is Mexican and celebrates their independence that day, so let your inner Mexican shine.

September 16th Timeline

The second day starts with a military parade that honors all military branches.

Your unit cleans the bathroom – you get afloat
Your unit makes tacos – you get afloat
Your unit guards Starbucks – you get afloat. Actually, a bunch of army guys were standing in front of a Starbucks that morning because they were waiting for their buddy to finish the coffee run. But they were more than happy to pose for pictures.

The parade honors past and present military personnel. It starts with a historical reenactment of the different uniforms through the ages, goes through all the different units of each military branch, and ends with a massive fly-by, parachuting, and the colors of the flags streaming by.

Parade Starts

It was hard to find an actual parade route or timetable on the internet, and I picked the hotel based on that. My best guess is it starts at the huge gardens in the middle of Mexico City and marches up the Av. Insurgentes Nte before taking a right on Pasea del La Reforma NTe, and another right heading towards the Zocalo Plaza and marching down another route. I think it starts in the gardens because I saw a lot of military personnel drive their cars away after the parade, and I remember from my days in Marching Band we always parked at the end of the route.

I was standing a block from our hotel room on Plaza de la Reforma; they started to March by at 1:00 PM sharp – but the parade started at 11:00 AM.

Hints for the Parade:

Get there early – this is the Macy Day parade for them. We were on street level at 8 AM, and the crowds were already forming.
You will stand for a while, so make sure you are ready. People are selling wooden stools if you want one.
If you are a couple of rows back, you can always buy a periscope from a local vendor – they were about $0.50 each. This is how I watched the parade.
Most restaurants and bars sell on the street so that you can get a cup of coffee.
If you turn on the television, you can also watch this from the comfort of your hotel room. They live stream it.

Afterward

Most museums were open, and we hit the National Archeology museum after the parade.

It was crowded but still enjoyable. Almost all the restaurants, bars, and cantina were open. Just check before you head out.

Other Tips

Try the Puebla’s chiles en nogada – It is eaten on Mexican Independence Day. This dish was created to reflect the colors of the Mexican flag. It is a green poblanos with white walnut sauce and red pomegranate seeds. I got to try this dish outside of Mexico – and it is delicious.
Don’t be afraid to party with the Mexicans – they love their parties.
Do Mexico Independence Day once in Mexico City – it is a unique celebration you feel part of. I found myself shouting along with the rest of the bar as the president made his speech.

That is the best I can do for you. But, hopefully, you wouldn’t be as completely lost as I was during this celebration, and if you are — well, that is part of the fun of traveling.

VIVA MEXICO!